The Season of Lemons
Summer’s abundance, a small citrus obsession, and a pound cake to carry you into next week.
Ciao, Family and Friends! Summer has finally thrown the doors wide open. And we’ve insisted they stay shut to battle the A/C bill. It’s hot in Alabama! Walk into any farmer’s market or stroll through the produce aisle at Whole Foods (where we found ourselves just recently), and you’ll see the tables groaning under the weight of all the fresh abundance: peaches by the gallonful, sweetly perfumed and velvety to the touch. Blackberries staining their cartons. Tomatoes, some with the vine still attached, ready to be sliced and spread across the best platter you’ve got. Zucchini and squash multiplying exponentially, it seems — faster than anyone can cook or eat them. God has given us another season of plenty, and I’m grateful for the daily miracle of how we’re fed and nourished. The earth just gives, and then even a little more on the way out. Colin and I have been doing our best to stay caught up, which means eating fresh most every day, and we feel a tad less smug and a bit more grateful for it each day of this season.
I love looking in the kitchen and seeing — instead of my “daily bread” — my daily lemon. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve devoured a whole bag of stone fruit myself twice already this summer. Then we went through every last one of the 26 perfect peaches M brought home a few weeks ago from the farmer’s market. But it is the simple and giving lemon that I reach for most often to celebrate summer. I’m partying hard with lemons this year! (Sentence I’d never thought to write before.)
A bowl of them sits on our counter like a little pile of captured sunshine, and every day it’s a squeeze over roasted vegetables, a twist of zest into yogurt, a wedge dropped into a cold glass of water (along with that ick collagen that’s also supposed to help restore me). Around here, lemons are the quiet workhorses of this kitchen. They brighten everything up. A dish that tastes flat almost always just wants a little acid, and half the time the fix is sitting right there in the fruit bowl.
We’re not doing anything too fancy with them — as the fish above shows. Colin just oven-baked that little fellow after he filled it to the gills with ALL the herbs and some coins of lemon. The buttery flesh slid off the bone. He made a beurre blanc sauce as well: a little bit of sauvignon blanc, a lot of butter, some shallot, and — of course — lemon! Oh. My. Goodness. It’s our Fish Friday next week — one of the five Italian-American dinners in the drop, full recipe and all. For now, here’s our exclusive Lemon Pound Cake recipe (below).
Next week we’re pulling everything toward Italy — Italian-American Classics, our Week 4 drop, landing July 25. Think basil pesto by the jarful, chicken done a dozen bright and lemony ways, and — yes — more citrus than you can shake a wooden spoon at. There is a lemon posset tucked into that set that I genuinely could not stop making while we tested: three ingredients, no oven, and it sets up silky in the fridge like it’s showing off for the neighbors. But that’s a story for later this month. For now I just want you thinking in the key of lemon.
Lemon Pound Cake
Dense, buttery, and bright — heavy cream keeps the crumb tender, and fresh zest and juice give it genuine lemon flavor all the way through.
- 226 g (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
- 2 cups granulated sugar
- 4 large eggs, room temperature
- ½ cup heavy cream
- ½ cup full-fat yogurt, room temperature (see note)
- ¼ cup fresh lemon juice (about 3–4 lemons)
- 3 tbsp fresh lemon zest (about 3–4 lemons)
- 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
- 3 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 tsp baking powder
- ½ tsp baking soda
- ¾ tsp salt
- 1 cup powdered sugar
- 3 tbsp fresh lemon juice
- Prep pans & oven. Heat oven to 325°F. Butter two 9×5 loaf pans and line with parchment, leaving an overhang on the long sides for easy lifting.
- Zest & juice the lemons. Zest first, then juice — far easier in that order. You need 3 tbsp zest and ¼ cup juice for the batter; save extra juice for the glaze.
- Whisk the wet mix. Stir together the heavy cream, yogurt, lemon juice, and vanilla. It may look slightly curdled — that’s fine.
- Whisk the dry mix. In another bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
- Cream butter, sugar & zest. Beat the butter until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the sugar and zest and beat another 3–4 minutes until very pale. Rubbing the zest into the sugar releases its oils — this is where the lemon lives, so don’t skip it.
- Add the eggs. One at a time, beating well and scraping down the bowl after each.
- Alternate dry and wet. On low speed, add the dry mix in 3 additions, alternating with the wet in 2 — begin and end with dry. Mix just until combined; overmixing toughens the crumb.
- Divide & bake. Split between the pans, smooth the tops, and bake at 325°F for 55–65 minutes, until a toothpick comes out with a few moist crumbs. Tent loosely with foil after 40 minutes if the tops brown too fast.
- Cool. Rest in the pans 15 minutes, then lift out by the parchment and cool completely before glazing.
- Glaze. Whisk the powdered sugar with lemon juice until smooth and pourable. Pour over the cooled loaves; for a thicker coat, do a second pass after the first sets 10 minutes. Let firm up 20 minutes before slicing.
Room-temp butter & eggs are non-negotiable. Cold butter won’t cream properly and cold eggs can break the emulsion — set them out 1–2 hours ahead.
My yogurt trick: I use Oui, a full-fat French yogurt — the raspberry, actually. It’s the tiniest hint, no clash at all, and it works beautifully: the tang brightens the lemon and keeps the crumb moist for days. Plain full-fat yogurt works too.
Make ahead: these loaves improve overnight. Bake a day early, wrap tightly once fully cooled, and glaze the day you serve.
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Lorianne & Colin
